North Shore Chronicles

In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins - considered the Kerouac of surf writing - profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.