Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe

Erin Griffey is Associate Professor of Art History at the University of Auckland and a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, London. She is a specialist in early modern visual and material culture and has published widely on the Stuart court. Her book, On Display: Henrietta Maria and the Materials of Magnificence at the Stuart Court, was published by Yale University Press in 2015.

• Introduction Erin Griffey 1 Isabella d'Este's Sartorial Politics Sarah Cockram 2 Dressing the Queen at the French Renaissance Court Isabelle Paresys 3 Dressing the Bride: Weddings and Fashion Practices at German Princely Courts in the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Century Kirsten Frieling 4 Lustrous Virtue: Eleanor of Austria's Jewels and Gems as Composite Cultural Identity and Affective Maternal Agency Lisa Mansfield 5 Queen Elizabeth: 'studded with costly jewellery' Susan Vincent 6 A 'Cipher of A and C set on the one Syde with diamonds': Anna of Denmark's Jewellery and the Politics of Dynastic Display Jemma Field 7 'She bears a duke's revenues on her back': Fashioning Shakespeare's Women at Court Robert I. Lublin 8 How to Dress a Female King: Manifestations of Gender and Power in the Wardrobe of Christina of Sweden Julia Holm 9 Clothes Make the Queen: The Clothing of Mariana of Austria from Archduchess to Consort Laura Oliván Santaliestra 10 'The best of Queens, the most obedient wife': Fashioning a Place for Catherine of Braganza as Consort to Charles II Maria Hayward 11 Chintz, China and Chocolate: The Politics of Fashion at Charles II's Court Juliet Claxton and Evelyn Welch 12 Henrietta Maria and the Politics of Widows' Dress at the Early Modern Court Erin Griffey Bibliography Index

"I see the importance of the publication not only in that shows fashion as a public affair, but that it very specifically shows fashion as space, in which within the time possibilities they could prefer to be politically implemented highly built women. The publication will be beneficial for researchers in the field of history, history of art and gender disciplines."- Linda Muchová, Czech Historical Journal (translated from Czech), 119 (2021) "The book’s range of disciplines, from political and social history to the history of dress, Renaissance art, and theater, will make it interesting and useful to a wide readership. The essays demonstrate the effectiveness of detailed technical analysis of dress working hand in hand with the analysis of elite women’s theatricalization of their power from the fifteenth to the seventeenth century."- Ann Rosalind Jones, Early Modern Women Journal, Volume 15, No. 2, Spring 2021 "This volume will be of interest to scholars of court culture and dress history, but it should also be taken seriously by political historians and gender scholars. This is a cross cultural and multi disciplinary collection full of bold new claims about court studies and fashion history, and is an asset to the catalogue at Amsterdam University Press, which is gaining a much deserved reputation for their Visual and Material Culture 1300 1700 series."- Dr. Sophie Pitman, The Journal of Dress History, Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020